Bakuchiol has had an interesting few years in skincare. It arrived as a 'natural alternative to retinol', which is partly true and partly the kind of framing that makes formulation scientists wince.
Here is what the research actually says, and why we use it in the Velvet collection.
Bakuchiol is a meroterpene phenol derived from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia, a plant used in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine. It has been shown in clinical studies to improve the appearance of fine lines, skin texture, and evenness of tone — effects broadly comparable to retinol in some studies, though the mechanisms differ.
Retinol works by binding to retinoic acid receptors in the skin and upregulating cell turnover. Bakuchiol doesn’t do this. What it appears to do, based on the research available, is modulate some of the same gene pathways that retinol affects — specifically those involved in collagen synthesis and skin cell renewal — but through a different mechanism that doesn’t carry the same irritation profile.
This matters in a fragrance-free, sensitivity-focused formulation context. Retinol, even at low concentrations, commonly causes dryness, peeling, and photosensitivity — particularly in the early weeks of use. Bakuchiol, in the studies conducted so far, shows a significantly lower incidence of these side effects. It also doesn’t have the same UV sensitivity concern, which means it can be used morning and evening without the precautions retinol requires.
Is it as powerful as prescription retinoids? No. Is it a meaningful, evidence-backed active that works well in a fragrance-free, essential oil-free formula designed for skin needing renewal? Yes.
That is why it’s in Velvet. Not because it’s trending. Because it earns its place.